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		<title>How to Fix a Slab Leak</title>
		<link>http://plumbinginfo.org/how-to-fix-a-slab-leak/</link>
		<comments>http://plumbinginfo.org/how-to-fix-a-slab-leak/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Aug 2010 00:18:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plumbing Diagnostics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[emergency]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[emergency plumbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Geophones]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hot water]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[leaks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plumbers]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Repair]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slab leak]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water bill]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water line]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wet spot]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://plumbinginfo.org/?p=220</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Slab_Leak_Repair.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-222" style="margin-right: 5px;" title="Slab_Leak_Repair" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Slab_Leak_Repair.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="235" /></a>A slab leak can be one of the more frightening experiences a homeowner has to deal with when it comes to emergency plumbing problems. Actually, that is a bit of a misstatement, because they aren’t usually an emergency at all, although they are often thought of as one.</p> <p style="text-align: justify;">Quite often a slab leak isn’t even discovered until a homeowner finds themselves with a huge water bill. They will call a plumber out to try to figure out why, and the plumber will inform the homeowner that they have a water line leaking under the slab. That means that the leak has been there for around a month or so already – so much for an emergency.</p> <span style="color:#777"> . . . &#8594; <a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/how-to-fix-a-slab-leak/">Read More:</a></span>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="float: right;margin: 4px;"><script type="text/javascript"><!--
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</script></p><p style="text-align: justify;">A <a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/how-to-fix-a-slab-leak/">slab leak</a> can be one of the more frightening experiences a homeowner has to deal with when it comes to <a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/what-is-an-emergency-plumbing-repair/">emergency plumbing</a> problems.  Actually, that is a bit of a misstatement, because they aren’t usually an emergency at all, although they are often thought of as one.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Quite often a slab leak isn’t even discovered until a homeowner finds themselves with a huge water bill.  They will call a plumber out to try to figure out why, and the plumber will inform the homeowner that they have a water line leaking under the slab. That means that the leak has been there for around a month or so already – so much for an emergency.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Slab_Leak_Repair.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-222" style="margin-right: 5px;" title="Slab_Leak_Repair" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Slab_Leak_Repair.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="235" /></a>First of all, I want to let you in on how I used to find leaks under slabs.  This might help you, since most pros do it the same way.  Obviously the first thing to consider is whether the house is really on a slab.  If you don’t know whether your house has a crawl space, just stomp on the floor once.  If you get a hollow sound, you have a crawl space, and the leak can be looked for there (once the access is found).  If it is solid and unyielding, you are likely on a slab.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The next thing is to try to figure out whether it is the hot or cold water.  Simply feeling for hot spots on the floor may be the easiest way to tell.  Even if I do not find any hot spots, I will usually turn off the hot water and see if the leak stops.  You can usually hear the leak when walking throughout a house.  In the rare instance where you cannot, watching the meter will tell you if the leak has stopped or not.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I do need to backtrack a bit.  It is very important that you or the plumber check every fixture very thoroughly to make sure that something else is not leaking. I cannot count the times when what others thought was a slab leak, I found was a leaking hose bib, irrigation valve or toilet.  Even good plumbers overlook this sometimes.  It happens.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">If you are lucky enough to have a wet spot or a hot spot on the floor, then you have a bit of a head start.  That will usually show you the area of the <a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/">plumbing</a> leak, but not always.  Do not depend on that, however.  I have seen leaks that were up to 10 feet away from the only wet spot.  Water finds the easiest avenue to escape, so what might seem like a spot where the leak is could easily be the spot where there is a crack in your slab.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The next thing I will usually do is try to map out where the pipes go.  I can often do this based on my experience, but it never hurts to actually locate the pipes with an electronic pipe locator.  This is not essential, but it makes finding the leak a lot faster, because you only need to look where the pipes are.  If you don’t know where the plumbing runs under your slab, you will be “looking” for leaks everywhere, including where there are no pipes.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/leak1.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-223" style="margin-left: 5px;" title="leak1" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/leak1-300x168.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="168" /></a>Next, find the general location.  If you don’t have a wet spot or a warm spot, you need to very carefully listen for where the sound is loudest.  Listen behind the toilets, under the sinks, etc.  The pipes are usually noisiest nearest the leak.  Once you have the general area located and know where the pipes are, you can begin the fun part.  I have an air compressor (a very quiet one) and an adapter that I made so that I can connect an air hose to an outside hose bib.  I keep the compressor in my truck with the doors closed to further minimize the sound.  Then I turn the water off at the main and pump air into the line at about 60-80 psi. I try to keep it near the working water pressure of the house, so I don’t force air into the city main.  I will go into the house and open up one of the faucets until that faucet starts to spit.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I then turn the faucet off and let the compressor catch up.  Some very helpful will happen.  The air, mixed will small amounts of water will make a very specific and recognizable sound as it exits the leak.  The pipes themselves will burble and such, but there will be a distinct “spitting” sound at the leak.  Now you just have to find that sound.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/P512geophonesil1.gif"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-232" title="P512geophonesil" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/P512geophonesil1-300x208.gif" alt="Geophones" width="300" height="208" /></a>I use one of two things when listening for the sound.  The one that I use primarily is called a Geophone.  You can actually get these (if you are so inclined) from <a href="http://www.pollardwater.com/pages_product/p512geophone.asp">PollardWater</a>.  There are also a variety of electronic listening devices on the market.  They are a lot more expensive.  The Geophone will cost about the same as someone doing leak detection for you, so unless you plan on having a lot of slab leaks, it is probably best to get a pro to find it.  Still, it never hurts to know the process, so you are informed.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Once the leak is found, fixing it is really not that hard.  It is a bit dangerous though, so I do recommend having this done by a pro.  Basically the process starts with removing the flooring; whether it is tile, linoleum, wood, carpet, etc., then using a small jackhammer to remove a section of concrete.  I try to keep the hole as small as I can – just big enough to work in.  Next, the leak needs to be positively located, and a section of the leaking pipe removed and a new piece tied in.  Do not allow someone to “patch” the pipe.  The section must be removed and replaced.</p>
<div id="attachment_228" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/wrongwaypiperepair.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-228" title="wrongwaypiperepair" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/wrongwaypiperepair-300x224.jpg" alt="bad repair" width="300" height="224" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Don&#39;t do this (bad)</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Now, let me stop for a second and tell you that this is meant to be done with copper pipe.  There are still homes out there that actually have galvanized water piping under their slab.  If that is you, I do not recommend trying to repair it.  The best course of action in this case is to do what is called a partial or full bypass.  That basically means that you need to cut off the flow to some or all of your slab piping and run new pipes overhead.  This is usually done within an attic.  I have run across homes that do not have attics, at which point I needed to run the pipes on the roof.  This is the way it has to be with Eichler homes.  In fact, my “falling off the roof” incident happened towards the end of an Eichler re-pipe.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Finally, when the repair is made, I recommend turning the water back on to test before closing up the hole.  Once it has been verified that there are no more leaks, I will get rid of the old soil that I took out to get to the pipe and fill with sand.  I do this because the old soil is wet and will cause the concrete patch to settle.  Sand will be compacted 100%, and will fill in some of the gaps as well that were created by the leak.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Next, you just poor concrete into the hole, level it off and let it cure.  I recommend leaving it uncovered for at least 7 days before replacing your floor covering.  It sound like a pretty big process to go through &#8211; and it is.  Different companies in different areas charge different amounts for these, but I use to charge between $2500 and $3800 to find and fix the leak.  That included replacing the concrete to “patch” finish.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">One final little bit of info for you, and this may be the most helpful part of this article:  Check with your insurance company and find out if they will cover you, and if so, what parts they cover.  In my area, many of the good homeowner’s insurance companies will pay for the leak location, the tearing out of the flooring and concrete to “access” the leak, and the replacement of the concrete and flooring.  Knowing this can really help.  The repair of the pipe is the easiest part, and can easily be shown on the invoice to have cost $150 or something, while the rest of it would be covered by your policy.  Out of all of the slab leaks I have repaired, I would say that about 80% were covered.  They will NOT usually cover a re-pipe however, but that is in my area, yours might be different.</p>
<div id="crp_related"><h3>Related Posts:</h3><ul><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/diagnosing-an-upstairs-plumbing-leak/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Diagnosing an Upstairs Plumbing Leak</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/emergency-plumbing-part-2/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Emergency Plumbing Part 2</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/plumbing-101residentail-drain-plumbing/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Plumbing 101|Residentail Drain Plumbing</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/plumbing-101a-flow-vs-pressure/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Plumbing 101a | Flow vs Pressure</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/before-you-call-a-plumber/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Before You Call a Plumber</a></li><li>Powered by <a href="http://ajaydsouza.com/wordpress/plugins/contextual-related-posts/">Contextual Related Posts</a></li></ul></div><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><center><script type="text/javascript"><!--
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		<title>Diagnosing an Upstairs Plumbing Leak</title>
		<link>http://plumbinginfo.org/diagnosing-an-upstairs-plumbing-leak/</link>
		<comments>http://plumbinginfo.org/diagnosing-an-upstairs-plumbing-leak/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Jan 2010 22:24:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plumbing Diagnostics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[drainage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plumbers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plumbing]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://plumbinginfo.org/?p=131</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/leakinceiling.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-132 alignleft" style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="leakinceiling" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/leakinceiling-300x225.jpg" alt="leakinceiling" width="300" height="225" /></a>Diagnosing an upstairs plumbing leak can actually be a lot trickier than a lot of people may think. In fact, when I worked for Allstar Plumbing, one of the questions we asked every potential employee during the interview process was how to properly perform this diagnosis. Even when making the scenario fairly simple, almost everyone got it wrong. Here is the scenario that we gave:</p> <p style="text-align: justify;">“A home owner calls you out because they have a wet spot in their ceiling directly below the upstairs tub/shower. It’s getting worse over time. To make the scenario easier, we will eliminate the possibility of the leak coming from the toilet or lavatory sink. We will focus on the tub/shower combo. </p> <span style="color:#777"> . . . &#8594; <a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/diagnosing-an-upstairs-plumbing-leak/">Read More:</a></span>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;">Diagnosing an upstairs plumbing leak can actually be a lot trickier than a lot of people may think.  In fact, when I worked for Allstar Plumbing, one of the questions we asked every potential employee during the interview process was how to properly perform this diagnosis.  Even when making the scenario fairly simple, almost everyone got it wrong.  Here is the scenario that we gave:</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">“A home owner calls you out because they have a wet spot in their ceiling directly below the upstairs tub/shower.  It’s getting worse over time.  To make the scenario easier, we will eliminate the possibility of the leak coming from the toilet or lavatory sink.  We will focus on the tub/shower combo.  How do you go about diagnosing the source of the leak?”</p>
<div id="attachment_132" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 280px"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/leakinceiling.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-132 " style="margin-right: 5px;" title="leakinceiling" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/leakinceiling-300x225.jpg" alt="leakinceiling" width="270" height="203" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Plumbing Leak In Ceiling</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Almost every single interviewee responded that they would cut a section of sheetrock out of the ceiling and look through the hole with a flashlight.  Sounds reasonable, right?  It’s the wrong answer!  Here is why:</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">First of all, what if the leak is being caused by a fault in the faucet itself or the tub spout?  Maybe the leak is due to the trim plate not sealing properly or some bad grout or caulking in or around the tile.  In all of those instances the plumber would have created a hole in your ceiling that does not need to be there.  It would be a shame to remove a large section of sheetrock when all that is necessary is better <a href="http://www.waterproofingonline.com" target="_blank">waterproofing</a> of your shower!  Some may argue that the sheetrock is bad and needs to be replaced anyway.  The easy answer to that is that we are plumbers – not water damage repair techs.  It is not for us to determine what needs to be done to fix water damage.  It is us to fix the plumbing that is causing it.  When that is done, we can refer our customer to a suitable water damage company.  We do our job and let them do theirs.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">So how do we diagnose this type of leak?  Let me preface the answer by saying that during any type of plumbing diagnostic, you want to eliminate a single cause at a time.  This means that everything you do eliminates only one possible cause.  Here is how you do it:</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">
<div id="attachment_134" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 268px"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/water-meter.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-134 " title="water-meter" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/water-meter.jpg" alt="Typical water meter" width="258" height="246" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Typical Water Meter</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">First you make sure that no toilets are running, no sinks leaking and no water is being used anywhere in the house.  You check your water meter.  Most meters will have a small dial that detects even a small amount of water usage.  You can test this by turning on one of your hose bibs so a trickle of water is coming out of it.  Then look at your meter.  The small dial (usually round or triangle) should be turning visibly.  When you turn of the hose bib, the dial should stop.  If it continues to move, you have a “supply side” leak somewhere.  You can further narrow it down by turning off the main shut-off valve to your house.  If the dial keeps moving, your leak is outside, before the house.  If it stops, the leak is in your house somewhere (maybe the tub/shower).  You can narrow it down even further by turning of the cold supply to your water heater.  If the dial stops, the leak is on the hot side somewhere.  If it keeps going, it is on the cold side.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Let’s assume that the meter is not spinning, so we know it is not a leak on the supply side of your plumbing system.  The next thing to do is start from the bottom up.  Get a ladder and put it under the wet spot in your ceiling.  This will make it easier to hear if water is dripping onto the sheetrock.  You may even want to poke a small hole in the sheetrock with a small screwdriver and let any standing water drain into a bucket.  That way when the leak starts it is easier to see.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Plug the tub drain, fill up a 5 gallon bucket (from a different source or water) and pour it into the tub, being careful not to splash.  Do that a few times until your tub is holding a fair amount of water.  Does that recreate the leak?  Don’t forget that you need to give it some time for the leak to show up.  If that does create a leak, the problem is with the “strainer” itself.  It may be loose, or the putty (or whatever sealant was used) wore out.  Often this can be fixed by loosening the drain, packing putty between the strainer and the tub and retightening.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">If that does not create the leak, pull the plug on the tub and let the water drain.  Does that do it?  Again, give it time for the leak to show up, this is not a 5 minute process.  If the leak shows up them, it is the drainage plumbing.  In this case, removal of sheetrock will likely be necessary to be able to fix the problem.  If it does not recreate the leak, you have eliminated the drainage and can proceed to the next step.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Next, turn on the water to your tub.  Since you have already eliminated the drains, if the leak shows op now, you know that the problem is either in the faucet itself or the pipe going from the faucet to the tub spout.  The easiest thing to do now, is to take off the shower handle(s) and trim and see if you can see anything happening in the wall.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Next, turn the shower on.  Be careful to make sure that the water is going directly to the tub and not splashing the walls.  If the leak shows up now, it is either the pipe between the faucet and the shower head, or the shower arm itself.  The latter is the most likely.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">If you still have no results, it is time to start splashing around some water.  Try running water over the overflow cover, the shower handles, different areas of your tile, etc.  Splash water on your shower doors too – anywhere where water might go when showering needs to be exposed to water.  The trick here is to do everything one at a time, so that when you get a positive result, you know what caused it.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">If you have followed these procedures to the letter, your plumbing leak will be found by the time you get to the end.  Just be patient and keep your eyes and ears open.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Now for the spoiler – Can you guess what the majority of upstairs plumbing leaks is caused by?  By far, the most common cause is a problem with the tile.  Usually something that can be fixed by simply applying tub and tile caulk to the defective area.  It’s kind of silly to remove sheetrock from your ceiling to diagnose that your tub needs to be re-caulked, don’t you think?</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Stay tuned for more plumbing info and tips to come soon!  As always, I am available to answer any questions you may have via comment, the contact page or our plumbing forum.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Thanks for reading.</p>
<div id="crp_related"><h3>Related Posts:</h3><ul><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/plumbing-101a-flow-vs-pressure/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Plumbing 101a | Flow vs Pressure</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/how-to-fix-a-slab-leak/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">How to Fix a Slab Leak</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/emergency-plumbing-part-2/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Emergency Plumbing Part 2</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/plumbing-101residentail-drain-plumbing/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Plumbing 101|Residentail Drain Plumbing</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/know-your-plumber-part-2/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Know Your Plumber Part 2</a></li><li>Powered by <a href="http://ajaydsouza.com/wordpress/plugins/contextual-related-posts/">Contextual Related Posts</a></li></ul></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Know Your Plumber Part 2</title>
		<link>http://plumbinginfo.org/know-your-plumber-part-2/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:28:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
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		<category><![CDATA[professional plumber]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/quality-001_0001.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-72" title="quality 001_0001" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/quality-001_0001.jpg" alt="quality 001_0001" width="298" height="176" style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" /></a>Hello again! In my last plumbing info article, I talked about the two different types of plumbers and the pluses and minuses of using each. I also revealed my opinion on the best kind to go for to deal with most plumbing issues. In this article, I am going to tell you how to make sure you are getting the best value for your plumbing dollar.</p> <p style="text-align: justify;">This article is going to focus almost entirely on up-sellers. These are complete plumbers, and the true plumbing professionals will be in this group. There are a LOT of impostors though, so I want you to know how to tell the difference. You want a professional working on your plumbing.</p> <span style="color:#777"> . . . &#8594; <a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/know-your-plumber-part-2/">Read More:</a></span>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;">Hello again!  In my last plumbing info article, I talked about the two different types of plumbers and the pluses and minuses of using each.  I also revealed my opinion on the best kind to go for to deal with most plumbing issues.  In this article, I am going to tell you how to make sure you are getting the best value for your plumbing dollar.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">This article is going to focus almost entirely on up-sellers.  These are complete plumbers, and the true plumbing professionals will be in this group.  There are a LOT of impostors though, so I want you to know how to tell the difference.  You want a professional working on your plumbing.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>How to tell a plumbing professional from an impostor.</strong></p>
<div id="attachment_72" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 278px"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/quality-001_0001.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-72 " style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="quality 001_0001" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/quality-001_0001.jpg" alt="quality 001_0001" width="268" height="158" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Plumbing Professional</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The first look when you open the door should tell a lot.  His pants may be a little dirty from working all day, but his uniform shirt should be clean.  His hands and face should be clean.  If you seen his truck, is it fairly clean and look well maintained?  A true plumbing professional will always do his best to show himself as a professional.  You cannot trust someone who cannot take care of himself to take care of your home.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Listen to him talk about how to solve your problems.  Give him a small problem to discuss, and you will know if he sounds knowledgeable and capable.  Give him a small plumbing problem to fix and observe how he approaches it, how he works, etc.  Does he keep his area clean? Is his work clean?  Does he respect your home?  Is he comfortable with you watching him work?  These areas are all very important.  If he cannot pass these tests, he is not the one that you want doing other work.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Believe it or not, there are a lot of plumbers out there that will pass all of these tests.  Unfortunately, the majority of plumbers will fail it.  The fact of the matter is that you want a true pro.  Regardless of what you may think, <strong>a true pro will not charge any more money than an impostor! </strong>An impostor actually thinks he is a pro, so he will charge accordingly.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>How to find a true professional plumber.</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Finding a true pro is actually easier than you think.  Do some research online.  Look at company reviews.  Stay away from “he fixed my problem in 15 minutes for only $50”, unless you want an in and out tech (see previous article).  Look for: “he was able to find…”, “he found…”, “he thoroughly…” and so on.  These are the companies that teach their plumbers to be thorough and look for long term solutions.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">When you find those companies, you call them to schedule a service call.  <strong>Do NOT ask them for their rates!!</strong> That is the worst thing you can do.  If they advertise free estimates, that is all you need to know until you talk to them in person.  Most companies that advertise free estimates will not quote you over the phone anyway.  You want to get the best plumbers from these companies to meet with you, so that you can match the dollars vs the value that they are offering.  Here is how you do it:</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">When you call a plumbing company to schedule service, you want to let them know about your problem and whether or not it is urgent.  Give them your best understanding of it.  Let them know that you are looking for more than a quick fix (if you are).  If you have had problems with other plumbers in the past, it is okay to share that.  Don’t talk bad about the other plumber, but make sure you let them know that you want a good job done. These companies will see you as a great opportunity and they will likely send one of their best guys.  That is what you want.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>How do you deal with the plumber once he shows up?</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The first step is to follow the guidelines above to tell if he is a pro or an impostor.  You won’t always be able to get him started on something small, however.  What do you do then?  Simple – <strong>you collect estimates</strong>.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I always recommend that you start with small jobs and build a relationship with a plumber that you will use forever.  If you have not been able to do that yet, you do not let a plumber do any major work without collecting at least another estimate or two.  Not only do you want to make sure you are not being overcharged, but you want to pick a pro.  Trust me when I say that getting a job done cheaply when you know it can be done better will cost you a LOT more in the long run.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">If you do have a small job that you can let the plumber start right away, that’s fine.  Just be ready for him to come to you for the “bump”.  The bump is the bigger scope of work that will give you additional benefits.  There is nothing wrong with him doing this.  It is actually what you want, as long as he is being straight forward about it.  Here are some tips for you to use when dealing with the “bump”.</p>
<ul>
<li>If your gut tells you to think it over for a day or so, listen to your gut.  It is probably telling you the truth.</li>
<li>Ask if it NEEDS to be done today.  This will give you an idea of how honest he is (very few things NEED to be done today).</li>
<li>Make sure you understand EXACTLY what is being proposed and the benefits of it being done.</li>
<li>Weight the benefits vs. the expense.  Is this repair going to be worth the money it costs to get it done?</li>
<li>Make sure you are getting the right plumber for the job.  If you feel someone else can do a better job, hire them.</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: justify;">When it comes right down to it, money always seems to be a major contributor to the process of making decisions about your plumbing.  There is nothing wrong with that as long as you factor in the long term costs as well.  Never ever choose a plumber because they are the cheapest.  You may get lucky once or twice, but it will cost you more in the long run.</p>
<div id="crp_related"><h3>Related Posts:</h3><ul><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/before-you-call-a-plumber/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Before You Call a Plumber</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/why-plumbing-info/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Why Plumbing Info?</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/know-plumber-part-1/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Know Your Plumber Part I</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/what-is-an-emergency-plumbing-repair/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">What is an Emergency Plumbing Repair?</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/plumbing-101residentail-drain-plumbing/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Plumbing 101|Residentail Drain Plumbing</a></li><li>Powered by <a href="http://ajaydsouza.com/wordpress/plugins/contextual-related-posts/">Contextual Related Posts</a></li></ul></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Know Your Plumber Part I</title>
		<link>http://plumbinginfo.org/know-plumber-part-1/</link>
		<comments>http://plumbinginfo.org/know-plumber-part-1/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 22:51:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Plumbers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plumber]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plumbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plumbing issue]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plumbing problem]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[service plumbers]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://plumbinginfo.org/?p=65</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/plumber1.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-66" title="plumber1" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/plumber1-300x251.jpg" alt="plumber1" width="300" height="251" style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" /></a>An interesting thing happened today. I joined a plumbing forum. The forum rules said that I could have a link to my website in my signature, so I put the link to the PlumbingInfo.org home page. I went to the part of the forum where new members can introduce themselves and created a post that basically said, “Hello! Steve from California here. I am dropping in to say hello”. After several people from that site went to view this website, I was banned from the forum!</p> <p style="text-align: justify;">Just proof that most plumbers do NOT want you to be an informed consumer! They are afraid of you knowing what this site is telling you. My girlfriend assures me, however, that I am doing the right thing. Now, on to the topic at hand…</p> <span style="color:#777"> . . . &#8594; <a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/know-plumber-part-1/">Read More:</a></span>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;">
<p style="text-align: justify;">An interesting thing happened today.  I joined a plumbing forum.  The forum rules said that I could have a link to my website in my signature, so I put the link to the PlumbingInfo.org home page.  I went to the part of the forum where new members can introduce themselves and created a post that basically said, “Hello!  Steve from California here.  I am dropping in to say hello”.  After several people from that site went to view this website, I was banned from the forum!</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Just proof that most plumbers do NOT want you to be an informed consumer!  They are afraid of you knowing what this site is telling you.  My girlfriend assures me, however, that I am doing the right thing.  Now, on to the topic at hand…</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/plumber1.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-66 alignleft" style="margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 5px;" title="plumber1" src="http://plumbinginfo.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/plumber1-300x251.jpg" alt="plumber1" width="270" height="226" /></a>In this article, I wanted to cover plumbers themselves and how to know whether or not you have the right plumber for your plumbing needs.  Most of you don’t know the difference, so I hope this helps.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">There are basically two types of service plumbers (new construction/remodel plumbers are a different breed).  They usually work under different pay structures, but the structures do overlap some. They are:</p>
<ul>
<li>“In and out” techs</li>
<li>Up-sellers</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>In and Out Techs</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">They want to get in, figure out the quickest way to get you a result, collect their money and get moving to the next plumbing call.  The reason is that they are usually either paid by the hour with bonuses for completing x amount of calls, paid according to how many calls they take (paid per call), or they are paid per billable hour.  Paid per billable hour means that since each job is billed to you with a 1 hour minimum charge, if they can finish your job in less than an hour and hurry on to the next job, they are still getting paid for yours.  Using this method makes it possible for the plumber to actually get paid for 10 or even 12 billable hours in an 8 hours day, depending upon how fast they are.  Some of these guys are commission-based as well</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The good thing about in and out techs is that if you know that what you need done is a quick, easy fix, they will take care of it quickly and be out of your hair.  A lot of them will quote you an hourly rate over the phone, so you pretty much know what you are going to spend before hand.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The bad thing about them is that they are usually specialized in 1 or 2 areas.  They may be great at clearing your sewer line, but will fumble over other work that they do not do as often.  Also, these plumbers do not really care about performing anything other than a quick fix.  They just don’t want to spend the extra time.  They also have a tendency to make a mess wherever they are working.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>Up-sellers</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">These are the best plumbers to have deal with the majority of your plumbing issues; they are also the ones you most need to be careful of.  These guys are almost all commission-based employees, or they own the company.  Either way, the more they charge you, the more they get paid.  That statement sounds kind of scary, but let’s look at both sides of it.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Most plumbing issues are not a simple, quick fix.  You almost always have options.  The only way to get those options fully explored is with an up-seller.  Their specialty is to get in, get started at relieving the symptom of your plumbing problem, then approaching you with a more permanent solution.  If that is what you want, then you can okay the further work.  If not, you can tell them “no thank you”.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Up-sellers are masters at finding everything that is wrong with your plumbing and spotting things that can go wrong in the future.  Whether you want them to fix it all is another story.  I believe, however, that it is always better to have too much info than not enough.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The bad thing about up-sellers is that they can be quite persistent.  They are also more likely to try to take advantage of you – either by overcharging, or trying to sell you work that you don’t need.  This is where the article “<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/know-plumber-part-1/">Before You Call a Plumber</a></span>” is helpful.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>So which way to go?</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Well, I spent most of my career as an up-seller, and I truly believe that they give the best service.  Let me explain why.  Let’s take what would seem to most people to be a fairly straight forward plumbing issue that most would think is a quick fix:</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Let’s say that every six months to a year, you notice that your kitchen sink drain starts draining slowly.  You call out an “in and out” company every time it happens and they charge you $100 to clear the line. It is good for another 6 months to a year.  Let’s say you call me out next time it happens.  I am going to ask about your experiences and offer a more complete solution.  If you decide that you are happy with $100 every 6 months to a year, I will do that for you. If, however, I can jet your lines for $300 and that’ll keep your drains open more than 3x as long, that saves you future time, inconvenience, and money. I make more money and you get a better product.  That gives us a win/win.  A good service plumber always wants the win/win.   Although, if you are in a hurry and just want something done quickly, an in and out tech is what you want.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">In my next article, I will cover how to know which plumber you are getting, and the best way to maximize your results with each, to make sure you are getting the best value for your plumbing dollar.  Talk to you then.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Steve</p>
<div id="crp_related"><h3>Related Posts:</h3><ul><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/before-you-call-a-plumber/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Before You Call a Plumber</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/know-your-plumber-part-2/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Know Your Plumber Part 2</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/why-plumbing-info/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Why Plumbing Info?</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/plumbing-101residentail-drain-plumbing/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Plumbing 101|Residentail Drain Plumbing</a></li><li><a href="http://plumbinginfo.org/plumbing-101a-flow-vs-pressure/" rel="bookmark" class="crp_title">Plumbing 101a | Flow vs Pressure</a></li><li>Powered by <a href="http://ajaydsouza.com/wordpress/plugins/contextual-related-posts/">Contextual Related Posts</a></li></ul></div>]]></content:encoded>
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